Sunday, July 25, 2010

Europe Trip Part 12: The Home Stretch

Copenhagen, Denmark

Wednesday, June 16

And so, we finally come to my last full day in Europe.  The trip had been great so far, but unlike a lot of iconic trips I'd been on - Philmont, Jambo... mostly scouting trips, I guess - I really hadn't been able to fall into a routine.  I suppose there were a number of factors leading into this, including the fact that I was frankly growing tired of packing up all my things and sitting in a cramped bus seat, only to find myself walking long distances through yet another city with lots of traditional brick and stone architecture, stopping occasionally to look at the city hall or parliament or an old palace or something.  The fact that I was coming within a few hundred dollars of my credit limit while at the same time growing tired of the added expense of using cash owing to all the transaction fees at the ubiquitous Forex exchange bureaus.

On the money front, I guess it's kind of unfortunate that my first stop on the trip was in Norway - widely thought to be the second most expensive country to visit in Europe after budget-busting Russia.  It just instilled in me this mindset that instead of getting out and having crazy experiences and taking tours and trying new foods, I should instead be aimlessly walking about, staring at the outsides of so many generically historic structures and refusing to spend money on anything other than hotels, buses, and maybe some public transit to enable my peripatetic wandering habit.  Oh, right, and restaurants are pretty expensive, so I should probably stick to my pop tarts and beef jerky, too.

All that was well and good, but quite frankly the whole extreme thriftiness mindset that I had going got really burdensome as the trip progressed.  Even on my first trip through Stockholm, I walked past a mongolian barbecue place - and boy, do I love me some mongolian barbecue - without even thinking of stopping for dinner since I was so set on getting back to my luggage locker for some beef jerky.  Such was the way I'd spent my 15 days on the continent so far, and initially all indications were that I'd spend my 16th and final day in Europe in much the same way - wandering around, looking at things, and spending as little money as possible.  However, something happened the previous night on the way back to my hotel that changed my mind.

On Tuesday night, on my way back from doing a bit of sightseeing and reconnaissance at the airport, I'd stopped in at the central train station to make a few phone calls.  It was around 10:30 when I began working my way back across the six blocks to my hostel.  The first bit of the journey took me along a high concrete wall.  I'd been this way before, and through a bit of research I figured out that this was the boundary of Tivoli Gardens, the second oldest and arguably most famous amusement park in the world.  Based on what I'd read, I knew it was a relatively small park and that the rides they had could barely be called "thrill rides" by American standards, but owing to the history and the spectacle of the place I'd initially been planning to try to stop by.  However, admission to the park runs $30, and that doesn't even include rides.  Given my miserly habits, shelling out fifty bucks when there was still a whole multitude of free attractions to see seemed wasteful when I only live 20 minutes away from Kings Dominion back in the states.


The big Tivoli sign was kind of a giveaway.

But as I crossed the street from the train station, rounded a corner, and headed along the outside of the back edge of the park, I could hear a bit of noise seeping over the wall from Tivoli.  First, I heard upbeat music done in a stereotypically classic theme park fashion which gradually came to be mixed in with peals of frolicsome laughter and excited shrieks.  I could see a few of the taller rides peeking over the walls, including the park's single steel coaster, which was lit up for the evening with a spectacular array of LEDs creating the illusion of a glowing streak trailing behind the train as it rocketed past, 40 feet overhead.  They say the grass is always greener on the other side, and I've got to agree that Tivoli certainly uses its central location to project the image of a glittering, mirthful, and festive refuge in the heart of downtown.  It truly looked to be a land of joy... and joyness.

It was at that moment that I decided to do a hasty rearrangement of my schedule for Wednesday.  It was then that I decided to go to Tivoli.

Wednesday, July 16... for real this time

The fact that I had resolved to go to Tivoli didn't change the fact that it was still going to cost me $50 to get in.  With the most expensive rides costing the equivalent of $6 a pop, the breakeven point on Tivoli's unlimited ride pass was a mere 3.5 rides, hence the $50 total cost.  Given that my home park of Kings Dominion has what I consider to be much better rides while only costing about $35, I had to do some schedule shuffling in order to make the most time for Tivoli as I could.

And with that, I managed to rouse myself and be out of the hotel by 8am in order to start my abbreviated tour of town.  Fortunately, my guidebook had just the thing: a bicycle tour of Copenhagen.  The city has a fairly large system of bike stands where you can check in and out a bicycle using a day pass you purchase from a nearby kiosk.  Unfortunately, due to my stinginess with money and the trouble I knew I'd have with checking in my bike and then having to wait for somebody to return with one at the bike stands near my various destinations... I wound up not getting a bike for the tour.  I mean, the circuit that Let's Go Europe had laid out around town was only 9 km long, which without stops shouldn't take much more than 90 minutes to walk.

So that's how I found myself in the middle of rush hour standing in the plaza outside yet another town hall in yet another Scandinavian capital city.  It wasn't open yet, and I wasn't about to wait for it let alone spend money to see the inside.  I mean, who does that anyway?

Oh, I should add that this isn't actually the town hall but instead a hotel called the Scandic Palace located next door.  I thought it looked a lot more interesting, especially given the lighting conditions.


And so I continued around on H.C. Andersens Boulevard past throngs of motorists and cyclists alike until I reached the Botanisk Have, the city's botanical gardens.  The whole place was elaborately landscaped and filled with a variety of plants from across northern Europe.  Unfortunately, my timing was off a bit again and the greenhouse didn't open until 10am... and by this point it was barely 8:40.  I whiled away some time looking in the windows of the cactus house and climbing around past tranquil - if artificial - streams across rolling hills and small ravines - both also probably fake.


I contemplated skipping ahead to my next destination, the Satens Museum for Kunst (National Modern Art Gallery), but they didn't open until 9:30am.  I'd really made a mess of things that morning, and to make matters worse I was fairly exhausted from a combination of getting up early that morning and ridiculously early the morning before to see the bridge.  However, the morning was absolutely gorgeous - at the perfect temperature, a sunny level of illumination, and a refreshingly light breeze - so I decided to fix both problems at once and stretch out on a park bench, surrounded by a meadow that somehow managed to be quiet and tranquil despite being 50 meters from the main street through downtown, and take a half hour nap.

I can say that the whole thing was quite glorious.  But in all too short of a time, my alarm went off and it was time to move on to see some modern art.  As it turns out, the modern art museum is free on Wednesdays... which meant that as I got there right at the opening they were absolutely swamped with school groups.  So I poked my head in, looked around the first floor, and decided it wasn't worth sticking around to see more oversized pencils, false color paintings of famous people, and blank canvasses masquerading as sophisticated art, so I left.

Next up on the list was the Rosenborg Slot, one of the many old palaces they have here in the city.  The exterior architecture was quite intriguing, and the building itself is quite narrow for how tall it is especially in contrast with modern styling.  But the real reason I was there was because of its remarkable period interiors.  They had rooms decorated in a multitude of styles, including wall carvings etched in wood painted black to bring out the contrast, rooms draped in tapestries, a room full wall-to-wall of blown glass, a matching room stuffed to the gills with china, and many more.  This ridiculously over-the-top decoration eventually culminated in the Long Hall on the top floor, where the solid silver coronation chair (different from a throne, apparently) was guarded by three full sized lion statues - also made from cast silver.  As if that wasn't enough extensive ornamentation, in the basement they even have the Danish Royal Treasury, featuring crowns and swords and china sets and all kinds of valuables as well.

Unfortunately, while all that stuff was spectacular to look at, I once again do not have any photos of it.  However, unlike previous places where photography was forbidden, it was welcome here - you just had to pay an extra $4 to get a photography pass.  I believe I've already established how I felt about spending money.


From there, I walked through yet another sizeable park and back on to the local street network.  Apparently, Copenhagen has passed an ordinance that by the year 2015 all citizens must be able to reach a park or beach on foot in less than 15 minutes, hence the shiny and new park I’d visited the night before.  Anyway, I continued across town (albeit in the narrow direction) to get to another palace complex, the Amalienborg Slot.  This palace complex is actually comprised of four stately buildings standing on opposite corners of a large pedestrian square.  I toured the restored residences of several past kings, including the suite of rooms where the current queen grew up, before heading back out into the plaza to marvel at the Marmorkirken (Marble Church) just west of the square.



Even though there were still a few exhibits to see at Amalienborg, including the suite of rooms that the crown princess was going to me moving into after she got married the following month – seriously, what’s with all the Scandinavian royal weddings? – as well as another changing of the guard ceremony, my memories of Tivoli from the previous night kept driving me urgently forward.  There was no time to dawdle.

Picking up speed, I rounded the final corner of my giant loop of Copenhagen and headed south along the river to Nyhavn (“havn” means harbor), a glorified canal home to lots of cafes and sailboats.  It sure was scenic, and even though I passed through without stopping I still got a decent chance to see the sights since the canal’s sailboat-friendly design meant that there were no bridges to cross it for about 500 meters.



After traveling along the canal for a while, I was finally able to turn back south and was soon confronted with the imposing façade of Christiansborg Palace.  However, perhaps more startling than the dark brown building or its beefy spire was what I saw in between me and it – traffic.  Despite the fact that bike riders make up 36% of commuter trips and all the environmental mumbo jumbo that the city preaches, I must say that Copenhagen was the only city I visited in Scandinavia where I saw any significant level of congestion.  I guess that speaks towards how many more travelers the town must have than any of the other capital cities.  And this picture below was taken in the early afternoon, so it’s not like it’s the rush hour or anything.  Lunch rush, I guess?



Anyway, this palace – which has burned down and been subsequently rebuilt 3 times in the last 200 years – was built by King Christian 4.  That man sure built a lot of stuff and put his initials on everything.  However, since Denmark became a constitutional monarchy, the place now houses parliament.



However, just like in Stockholm – the only other capital city I visited with a stately palace more than 100 years old – I was more interested in seeing the structure and the architecture of the place than the decorations or operations.  And with that I headed down to see the ruins of an old palace below the current structure for the second time in the trip.  Just like before, it was cool to see the product of excavations made during the construction of the new facility.  Here, most of the old foundations were remarkably well preserved, except for where the new structure had its foundations.  I guess it helps if you have good plans and drawings of the palace before it burns down, unlike in the really really old palace ruins I saw in Sweden.


Anyway, I found the ruins of the old palace to be quite fascinating, but unfortunately that put me back behind my arbitrary schedule once again.  To compound my difficulties, my next and last stop of the day was the impressive (and free) Nationalmuseet, the National Museum of Denmark.

The Nationalmuseet is really something, especially given how small the country of Denmark is.  They’ve got exhibits on all kinds of ancient cultures across all the continents, from clothing to weapons to canoes to musical instruments, and that’s just one of the wings.  And so it should show you just how focused on getting to Tivoli I was that I was able to view all the exhibits in only 62 minutes.

I blazed past their collection of historically furnished palace rooms (yep, this building also used to be a palace), wandered quickly but respectively through the coin collection so as not to upset the nice old lady trying to answer questions, and continued past their African exhibits, the Egyptian rooms, the plant collection, yet another painstakingly restored Viking burial ship, and a bunch of other stuff that I scarcely remember anymore.

Unfortunately, the part I got to last was the most interesting.  The section on Denmark itself had only recently been through a major restoration, so they were shiny and intelligently organized and – most notably – they had English language captions.  And so it was that my interest got the better of me and I broke step to stop and look in more detail at some of the exhibits.  But eventually I had that past me, and it was just getting to be 2pm by the time I headed back to my hotel to drop of everything but my wallet and camera.  No sense being weighted down for Tivoli!

The Part Where I Go On and On about Tivoli

I walked around the long way to the front gate just to size the place up a bit.  Now having completed a full circuit of the place, I was taken aback by just how small Tivoli Gardens actually are.  I suppose that with prime real estate between Kobenhavn H (the central train station) and town hall square, there’s really not any space available to expand.  But by this point I’d seen everything I thought was interesting – albeit quickly – so doing anything other than continuing into Tivoli would have been backtracking.  So I paid my $30, forked over another $20 for the unlimited rides wristband, and passed under the elaborate entrance archway (shown below at night for effect) into a land of merriment and wonder.




There truly is something magical about Tivoli.  It’s hard to describe.  The whole place is bathed in this otherworldly glow, where the paint seems that much brighter, the trees just a little bit greener than normal, and where the music is slightly more whimsical than you’d think something piped in through all-weather speakers should be.

I’m even having trouble comparing it to a well-themed American theme park like Busch Gardens or even Disney.  Sure, in those places they do a phenomenal job of making the buildings portray a certain feeling of where you’re supposed to be, with the shrubberies trimmed just so to create the illusion of being in a fairy tale or ancient Rome or what have you.  But at Tivoli, everything just… is.  There’s no themeing at all - they don’t have to pretend to be historic and European, because that’s what they are.  Tivoli doesn’t have to try to be something it’s not, because it’s one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, so it really is THE original amusement park.  Everywhere else is trying so hard to be like Tivoli that when you actually get there and see the effortlessness and the straightforward, genuine manner with which the park presents itself, it’s just amazing.  You don’t even care that none of the roller coasters go more than 50’ in the air and that the rides in general are kind of lame.  You’re at Tivoli, and everything is fantastic.

And it certainly doesn’t hurt that everybody in the park is just as wonderstruck as you are.  No matter how tame or predictable the ride may be, there was always some Dane screaming their head off in some combination of sheer terror and mirthful ecstasy.  And so it went that at those moments where I was starting to feel disappointed by the limited selection of rides or even other things like my glasses being broken or the massive credit card bill I was going to have when I got back home in spite of my penny pinching, I just had to think about how good of a time everybody around me was having to be re-infected by the irrational exuberance.  As the Daft Punk song goes, “and it looked like everyone was having fun; the kind of feeling I’d waited so long for.”

I wound up entering the park proper just before 2:30pm, which gave me 8 hours to enjoy myself before everything closed up for the world-renowned Tivoli Illuminations.  So suffice it to say that I’m going to skip large parts of the afternoon, like the ill-fated and nausea-inducing tour I made through all of the state fair-style rides with all their jerks and jolts, back to back to back to back, or my short-lived attempt to ride all the kiddy rides just so I could say I rode every ride at Tivoli.

Anyway, in looking for the attraction to ride first, there was really only one option in my mind: the unimaginatively named and astonishingly old Rustshebanen ("Slide").  It’s kind of tame in terms of the ride itself, but when you realize how old it is and come to understand that this means it lacks the modern three-wheel system present in modern coasters – where there are wheels above, below, and on the insides of the tracks to keep the train from flying off as it crests a hill or rounds a corner – things start to get significantly more thrilling, and fast.  In fact, in order to keep the train from completely leaving the tracks, the park installed a chair in the center of the train so that one of the operators (in the black jacket in the photo below) can ride along with the train and apply some braking in key locations.  Note that I say “completely leaving the tracks” – the operators I rode with seemed to make it their mission to push the train as close to derailing as possible; all for the enjoyment of the passengers, of course.




Now, I’ve been badmouthing Tivoli in terms of having rides that were exciting throughout this whole blog entry.  I should say that that’s not entirely true… you just have to find something that really sets you off to be truly excited.  For me, I’m used to getting my kicks from tall, fast roller coasters, or at least something with a good launch at the beginning from all my time at King’s Dominion as a kid.  Tivoli just didn’t have that kind of thing.

However, what it did have were some decently tall tower rides.  Given the fact that I’m made more than a bit uneasy around heights, the fact that Tivoli has the world’s tallest carousel at over 250’ tall.  Note that carousels are the ones that go around horizontally and that it’s not a ferris wheel as I originally misread in the brochure.  I don’t have any photos of this ride because the park staff was especially diligent in having us all completely empty our pockets and take off our shoes so that something didn’t fall out and strike another guest while our especially dangly basket seats were swinging around high over everyone’s head.  They did everything short of a pat down to make sure that we were clean.  Crazy.  But anyway, after about a minute of spinning off kilter high above downtown Copenhagen, I’d grown apprehensive about the structural integrity of the tower and had overanalyzed the spectacular view enough to be ready to come down.

And so come down I did, only to go right back up on a drop tower.  I must say, drop towers are one of the best ways I know of to truly enjoy myself.  I get so apprehensive on the way up that when we finally do drop down to the ground again, I feel such a deep sense of relief and emotion that the whole experience makes me all tingly.  Even though I was properly terrified by the last trip, I rode that thing three times in a row.



Just down the way was probably one of the most frightening rides I’d ever been on at a theme park.  [I’d just like to state for the record that I keep typing “them park” and it’s really bothering me now.]  It’s the one to the left in the photo below.  You and 3 others strap into a row of seats decorated to look like an airplane and proceed to go through a virtual dogfight.  As the big blue arm begins to rotate faster and faster, your plane spins through all 3 axes to get everybody good and properly disoriented.  At the end of the preprogrammed ride, the plane locks in straight and the arm continues speeding up until eventually you’re all pulling 5 G and it gets really uncomfortable to breathe.

And the guys I went with wanted to ride the backwards program.

Now that I look back on it, I really enjoyed the experience.  I guess that’s the way it is with pushing boundaries on rides.  But I’ve got to say, going through with the ride itself has got to have been one of the least enjoyable things I did on the trip.



The group before us enters the “Nitro Spin” section of the program.  This picture is taken looking straight up.


As you can probably guess, by this point I was getting a bit tired of the high-thrill rides, so I grabbed an enormous ice cream cone and watched the sun continue ever-so-slowly towards the horizon.  There’s a reason why they schedule the illuminations at 10:30pm – it’s only just started to get dark by that point.



But I still had a few hours until I needed to worry about staking out a point on the shore to see the show.  So why not go on a relaxing, mind-numbingly slow boat ride.  Wait, you say these are bumper boats?  Very slow bumper boats?  All the better, I guess.  At least I wasn’t going to be banging up my knees on the insufficiently spaced dashboard like I did on the fun but painful bumper cars.


Something else that Tivoli has that they like to show off is a storied history of ballet.  To get a break from the rides that I’d already ridden multiple times by that point, I went to see that evening’s show.  It was kind of short on plot, in the same sense that the guys in the scene below are short on having real pants.



I honestly preferred the musical acts that performed sporadically throughout the park.  However, despite the fact that there were two separate bandstands, one for classical and one for jazz, you could tell that the same band was doing both shows since between performances you’d see the occasional clump of overdressed people in bow ties and dinner jackets making their way across the park while VERY LOUDLY cracking their knuckles.  That part was a bit eww, but the music was great.

Do you see how bright it still is at 10:30?  Sheesh, and I thought I’d traveled far south.  Anyway, here’s the world-famous Tivoli Illuminations in progress.  They were pretty spectacular, and the music was good and trippy – perfect for a laser show.  The only thing that made it a bit of a disappointment is that I’d been led to believe that there would be fireworks.  And there were no fireworks.  Oh well.




Eventually, the illuminations ended and it came time to cram in one or three more rides of the steel coaster, bringing my total for the day up to 9 runs.  I was lucky enough to time it perfectly that I got to the gate for my 9th ride just as they were closing up for the night.  Since there were only four of us in the station for that last ride, we all crammed in side by side by side by side in the front row for once last go ‘round.

And so, for the fifth time in six nights, I had a truly fantastic trip-ending experience.  Tivoli’s steel roller coaster is a floorless coaster, so in the front row your feet are dangling out over nothing as the train rockets around the circuit, through loops and barrel rolls and bunny hops back to the beginning again.  And so as the four of us swooped through the gradually dimming twilight as the lights of Tivoli came on one by one under our feet, it really seemed like we were flying.  The ride may not be tall or aggressive or particularly fast, but at that moment on that day I can safely say that none of us on that train would rather have been anywhere else.  And I guess that’s all anybody can really ask from a roller coaster.

On my way out of the park, Tivoli was ablaze with twinkling lights.  Even the moon decided it wanted to get in on some of the action, trying to blend in with some of the turrets on one of the park’s three different starred restaurants.




I mean, what else is there to say?  The whole trip has been great up until this point, and it turned out that going to Tivoli was the perfect way to put an exclamation point at the end of the trip.

Mmm, would you look at that?  Fantastic.




Thursday, June 17

By the time I got back to the hotel room, it was Thursday, and Thursday was my day to leave.  My flight was to depart at 9:50am, and according to Finnair’s website I was to allow 3 hours at the airport.  That meant that I needed to leave the hotel room around 6am to allow myself 15 minutes to walk to the metro and then some padding in case the train was late or something.  And so I started packing, knowing that even at that point I had 5 and a half hours until I needed to wake up.

I talked to one of the Korean girls sharing my co-ed bunkroom for a while as I packed.  She’d been planning a trip to Tivoli the following day, so I gave the park a favorable review, with a good deal of subtlety compared to the glowing praise I’ve been giving it in this post lest she not be captivated by the magic to the extent that I had been.  The reason that I bring this up is that after hearing my abbreviated story, she became the second Asian female in as many cities to compliment me on my voice.  And here I thought that I was just rambling on in a gravelly monotone.  I guess I must sound especially suave in comparison to your average Asian male, in much the same way that I immediately think all British men are sophisticated based on the Patrick Stewarts of the world.

The Saga of the Rudest Hotel Guest in the World

But I digress.  The main thing I’d like to highlight about my 6ish hour stay in the hostel that night was that I got to meet the Rudest Hotel Guest in the World.  He was Greek, I later found out, and even after the Korean and I had quieted down out of consideration when the other group in the room had turned in for the night, he continued to talk on his cell phone for about 20 minutes.  By that point, I was finished packing and had begun brushing my teeth.  At the same time, the Korean had stepped out to get a drink from downstairs.  She’d been reading, and had left her little overhead light on so she could find her way back in the curtain-induced darkness of the room.

However, when the Greek finished his call, he immediately got in bed, turned over on his side, and looked at me and demanded that I turn off the Korean’s light.

“She’s just stepped out for a moment,” I said.  “I’m sure she’ll be right back.”

“I certainly hope so,” he growled.  “That light is keeping me from going to sleep.”

Now, one incident of not realizing the irony of your situation hardly makes for the Rudest… in the World title.  No, that came in the morning.

I got up around 5:45, thinking (correctly) that nobody else would be up by that point and that 30 minutes would be plenty of time to shower and throw on my cleanest shirt.  However, just as I was gathering my clothes and soap, the Greek must have been roused by the slight clink of my belt buckle, as he shot upright in bed, leaped down from his top bunk with a crash, and dashed right past me into the bathroom.  I practically held the door open for him.

“Wow, he really must have had to pee,” I thought to myself.

So I stood vigil outside the bathroom to hold my place in line.  Five minutes went by.  After seven minutes of hearing nothing, I knocked on the door.  There was a loud, mucous-filled nose clearing sound, and then a toilet flush.  Figuring he was on his way out, I stood up again to be ready to swoop in and take my shower.

And then the sink started running.  That was followed by 10 minutes of shaving noise and an inordinate amount of nose clearing.

And then the shower started.  17 minutes in the bathroom, and you’re just getting to your shower?  Now, I think that’s rude, even if you didn’t just cut in a line of 1 to get to the restroom.  I hope I’m not being too judgmental.

So by that point I knew I wasn’t going to be able to shower.  I apologized in advance to all my future seatmates for that day, slapped on some deodorant, and threw on a shirt.  Unfortunately, I still had to wait for the guy to finish his shower since my towel was still in the bathroom.  I was in such a huff to grab my towel that I plum forgot to actually use the bathroom.

And so I was behind schedule leaving the hostel, and all I did that morning was put on a shirt.

Back to the Story

Fortunately, like the vast majority of plane rides I’ve ever taken, my time at the airport was exceptionally smooth.  I walked right up to the check-in counter, zipped thorough security in under five minutes, and was at my gate under an hour after I picked up my towel.  Wow.

I had yet another window seat for the departing flight, so as we climbed out of Kastrup airport I got another great view of the Øersund Bridge, this time from above.  If you look carefully, you can even spot the grid of 30-some wind turbines on the right side of the photo, and that doesn’t even account for the row of 15 north of the bridge from Tuesday night.  The latter array supplies 1/5 of Copenhagen’s power supply, I later learned.

 

On my longer flight, I got more desperate for things to see.  I’d already watched Invictus, which was really the only movie they had that I hadn’t seen that I was interested in.  So… I watched Percy Jackson and the Olympians: The Lightning Thief, which I must say that no matter how much the title is asking for a sequel should almost certainly not be given one.  I also watched some episodes of Burn Notice that I’d already seen from Season 2, before getting bored and playing the trivia game for a while.  Their questions were really quite obscure and therefore no fun, so I quickly moved on to Hangman, which was quite enjoyable.  In addition to some deviously short words, the “hard” level setting also included some fairly tricky words, like the one in the photo below.  And there was even an “expert” mode on top of that.




Customs in New York was a pain, much more so than on the way out.  Unlike in Helsinki upon entering the EU, in America I was required to wait in an exceptionally long line to talk to a customs agent for 25 seconds, before I actually was required to pick up my checked baggage and carry it up three floors to the arrivals hall where I had to re-check my baggage and go through security again.  Seems like that whole mess could have been accomplished with one conveyer belt and a stairwell, but I guess not all countries that fly to the US have uniform security standards.  Oh well.

Long story short, I’d been looking forward to getting some greasy pizza or something in the airport, since apparently I don’t have the same hesitation about spending US Dollars as I do for foreign currency.  However, all of these customs and check-in and security processes meant that my 135-minute layover only gave me about 20 minutes before the scheduled boarding call.

So I resolved to get some food once my dad picked me up at National Airport in DC.  And just after I called him to confirm that, my flight got delayed an hour due to runway repairs, of all things.  Meh, what’re you going to do about it?

After only 35 minutes of delay, we were airborne and flying across a cloud-covered New Jersey afternoon.  By sheer luck since American Airlines (who operated my US flight routes) wouldn’t [NOTE: this post is now over 6,000 words long] let me reserve a seat, I had another window seat for this journey.  For the first half hour or so, the clouds gave the appearance of a snow-covered forest of rolling hills, stretching off to the horizon.  It was really pretty cool.



I love flying, let me make that clear.  So it came to be that in all too short of a time, I was back at National Airport, only 35 feet from where I’d sat 17 days earlier gazing across my plane towards the Washington Monument.  Since my dad was meeting me, I had no time for sentimentality, however.  I descended down into the bowels of the airport to pick up my bags, and that’s where he found me.


All in all, it was a great trip.  I hope to be able to make it back sometime.

Facts and Figures

Just to wrap up, I’d like to present some statistics from the trip.

It took…
  • 18 days, including:
    • 11 nights in hostels
    • 2 nights on buses
    • 2 nights on ferries
    • 1 night on a train
    • 1 night on an airplane

…to visit:
  • 4 capital cities, where there were:
    • 4 languages spoken (plus English)
    • 4 currencies used
      • 3 of them Kroner
  • 4 US embassies
    • 0 US embassies used
  • 2 city transportation museums
  • 3 guard changing ceremonies
  • 4 city halls
  • 3 national parliament buildings
  • 9 royal palaces
  • 6 preserved forts
  • 4 “National Museum”s

…during that time, I ate:
  • 8 free breakfasts
  • 2 purchased breakfasts
  • 0 free lunches
  • 6 purchased lunches
  • 3 free dinners
  • 4 purchased dinners 

…that makes 12 meals that I bought in 18 days thanks to:
  • 12 pop tarts
  • 2 lb of beef jerky
    • (plus a few raisins, Starbursts, and Finnish strawberries)

All in all, I traveled:
  • 9,692 miles by plane
  • 854 miles by bus
  • 620 miles by train
  • 560 miles by boat
  • 114 miles by foot
  • 112 miles by car
    • (plus some by streetcar, subway, and tram)

…making my average speed over the 18 days around 28.5 miles per hour.  Without the airplanes, that drops to 5.6 miles per hour.

Finally, I’d like to thank everybody who read about my European adventure.  I might write a bit more about some other events from this summer and beyond, but given just how wordy I’ve started to make these updates, it might not be worth it.  In any case, thanks for reading, and in case you’ve been with me for all 12 installments, let me give you a big round of applause, because you’ve just finished reading 28,553 words of my nonsensical prose.  Thanks for sticking around!

See you around,

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Europe Trip Part 11: We're on a Bridge, Charlie!








Copenhagen, Denmark

Tuesday, June 15

The sun dawned bright and early as the bus rumbled through southern Sweden, although not anywhere near as early as it had earlier in my trip as I traversed the northern fringe of Europe.  Unlike my previous bus trip, I had taken the time to set a watch alarm for this particular leg, the reason being that I wanted to make sure I was awake for the last bit of this journey.  This desire did not just stem from wanting to be conscious as we wound through the streets of Copenhagen, it was because of just how our bus was going to make it between Sweden and Denmark.

For hundreds of years, the Swedes and the Danes have... well, we'll just say they haven't been the best of friends.  Although they're separated by a body of water called Øresund (literally, "The Sound"), at its narrowest point Øresund is only 2.5 miles across.  This means that the two nations have been fighting for control of its shores ever since the mid-1400s.  Well, lop off modern times since Sweden started practicing its neutrality thing, and we'll start to approach the truth.

However, in recent times, it is only natural that relations between the two nations have become a lot better.  A lively system of ferries sprung up between the two coasts, allowing relatively easy access between Copenhagen on the west and Malmö on the east.  In fact, by the 1980s a period of prosperity and job growth in Copenhagen coupled with a spike in real estate prices meant that a number of people were starting to seek out housing in Malmö and commute to work across the sound.  That, in conjunction with the ever-growing freight and passenger traffic heading between Scandinavia and mainland Europe, meant that it was high time for a fixed link to be constructed between the two countries.

And so, after years of speculation, a decade of planning, and 4 years of construction, the Øresund Bridge finally opened in 2000.  It's quite an impressive structure, even just looking at the stats: 5 miles of bridge with a 1600' wide cable-stayed span in the middle giving 190' of clear space underneath, followed by a 2.5 mile long, half mile wide manmade island, eventually connecting to a 13,000' long tunnel giving a completely unobstructed shipping lane.

What's more, the whole thing really interesting to look at from an engineering perspective.  I mean, first you might wonder why not just make the whole thing a bridge?  Well, the designers wanted to make sure that future ships - ones that might even be more than 200 feet above the waterline - would still be able to pass the bridge through the western channel to get to the Copenhagen port.  Not only would this require really tall and REALLY expensive support towers, they'd also interfere with airplanes coming in to land at Copenhagen's Kastrup airport.  So that end became a tunnel.  However, building a tunnel would interfere with the Øresund's currents - the thing's not that deep to begin with - so they had to dig a big trench in which to bury the tunnel segments, and that dredged material was enough to make an island to transition between the bridge and the  tunnel.  The reason this transition island is so much larger than bridge-tunnel islands that we see in the Hampton Roads of Virginia is because this tunnel displaced more soil than all three of those bridge-tunnels put together.  So there.

So it's safe to say that the impressive structure was one of the main reasons why I woke up on a bus instead of, say, taking a plane and getting there in a few hours: so I could actually traverse the bridge as a part of my journey.  While the train was also an option - the bridge carries both rail and road traffic - the tracks pass through the substructure of the bridge, and I wanted to make sure that I had a good view as we passed over the bridge.

So I set myself an alarm to go off as we passed through Skåne län, the southernmost county (really a state in the US sense) of Sweden.  However, before that could wake me up, I found myself jostled awake by a particularly raucous crowd getting off in Malmö... which was a good thing, I guess, given that the bus was running about 45 minutes ahead of schedule and I otherwise would have missed the bridge.

And so once again in this trip, I found myself glued to the windows as we wound through the streets of Malmö.  Ooh, there's the Turning Torso!








OK, here's the part of the blog entry where I've got to make a confession: I've just spent 750 words describing why traveling across the top of the Øresund Bridge was so interesting, but I don't really have any interesting pictures of it.  Umm... yeah.  Sorry.  As it turns out, it's really hard to take pictures of a bridge while you're driving across it.  That's something we'll have to fix later on down the page.

So we crossed the bridge - and man, was it scenic and... um... cloudy? - and were dropped off in seemingly the middle of an industrial section of the city at 6:30am.  As soon as I stepped off the bus, I was nearly run down by a speeding cyclist, setting the trend for what life would be like on the sidewalks of Copenhagen.  I grabbed my stuff, wished I'd had a map, and began walking in the direction that I thought was North.






A few blocks passed, and I started to be able to hear the sound of trains.  I turned right, and found myself in the middle of the swtichyard for Copenhagen's central train station.  Turns out they hadn't dumped us in the middle of nowhere after all, just out behind the train sheds.

Owing to the fact that I'd actually spent most of the time on the bus sleeping, I hadn't yet been able to formulate a plan for what to do with my last two days abroad.  So I tucked on into the train station and tried to come up with a detailed plan.  Back in the initial planning stages of the trip, I'd thought about what I knew of in Denmark, and the only thing I was really able to come up with was Legoland.  Although I'd always loved the flexibility and constructibility that Lego bricks afforded, upon doing some further research I discovered that Legoland was in Billund, which is actually quite a long way away from Copenhagen.  Like, 2.5 hours long.  That, and the fact that admission costs right around $50 was enough to cause me to find other plans.  So a few minutes of further research later and after a bit of investigation into the local train schedules, I was ready to set off to my hotel.

By this point, an hour had passed.  As I walked the 6 blocks from the central train station to my hotel, I was struck by just how much traffic there was in the city.  Cars and trucks were just whizzing by on the stereotypically named Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard, presumably on their way to work or whatever.  However, the most fascinating thing about the traffic in Copenhagen is just how many people choose to travel by bicycle.  Seriously, just on this one short walk alone I must have been passed by 300 or 400 bicycles.  At the crosswalks, I felt like I was in serious danger from the sea of two-wheeled projectiles.  Interestingly enough, though, the amount of car traffic and the lightness of pedestrians on the sidewalks makes me think that the high cycling mode share is more created by drawing people away from walking than from any actual reduction in the number of vehicles on the streets.


Eventually, I reached the Danhostel Copenhagen City, which at around 15 stories and over 1000 beds is the largest hostel in all of Europe.  Facilities were decent but cheap, with six beds to a room and no free breakfast.  It's nothing really to write home about, so I'll speak of it no more.  


Suffice to say I dropped my stuff and immediately headed back to the central train station.  Why, you may ask?  To catch my train.

But first I had to eat some breakfast.

Luckily for me, I was still lugging around some of the food that I had brought along from the US.  You know, that stuff that I'd been subsisting on in Norway.  Well, the food was still here a week and a half later, albeit a little bit worse for wear.  Fortunately, even a package of s'mores Pop-Tarts that have been fused together into one crumbly mass still tastes as delicious as one that hasn't had the filling start to erupt out onto the surface like in the picture below.



Anyway, the whole reason I was back at the train station was to take a journey up to the northern mouth of Øresund, to the little town of Helsingør. While you may not have heard the name Helsingør before, you are probably familiar with it in its anglicized name, Elsinore, as the home to Kronborg castle - the setting for Shakespeare's Hamlet. Luckily for me, despite the fact that Helsingør is about an hour away by train, the trip is still covered by Copenhagen's transit system for quite a reasonable price - about $20, round trip.

From the train station in Helsingør, the walk to reach Kronborg castle is not long.  In fact, the cool weather and the gorgeous skies made the experience quite relaxing, especially given the peaceful nature of the town and the fact that its small and historic buildings stood in stark contrast to the noisy, crowded streets of Copenhagen.


Eventually, I found myself across the moat and inside the perimeter walls of the castle, only to be separated from the main structure by another moat and another set of walls.  Man, these guys must have been serious when they built this thing.


As I'd mentioned, the town of Helsingør is located near the northern mouth of the sound separating Denmark and Sweden.  In this location, the gap between the two countries is less than 3 miles wide, so the Danish empire built Kronborg castle as a way to police shipping in Øresund.  In exchange for a fairly substantial tax called the Sound Dues, the king promised to protect commerce in the straight from piracy and other nefarious forces.  Oh, and he also promised to not sink your boat, which was the fate that befell most ships who refused to pay.


Inside the castle itself, there are a number of attractions.  On the tour, you can see many sights, including the Grand Ballroom, which at 62 meters by 12 meters was the largest interior room in Northern Europe at the time of its construction, as well as a great many tapestries and old pieces of furniture and such.  You can also see the intricately carved chapel or walk through the Danish Maritime Museum, home to "one of the world's finest collections of naval models."  Seriously, they must have had 200 or 250 models of different ships from across the centuries out for viewing.














However, once again during a tour of an old castle I found the most interesting exhibit was the one where you got to wander around through the foundations of the structure. Kronborg's casemates cover an area the size of several football fields, and even though they're dark and uneven and full of things you could trip over or hit your head on, they still let you wander around just about wherever you want. I guess that's another difference between Europe and the litigious mindset we have in America.

In addition to serving as lodging for soldiers and storage space and a prison over the years, the catacombs are also home to the rather imposing statue of Holger Danske, or Ogier the Dane. According to legend, his spirit lies in wait somewhere in the castle ready to come to the nation's rescue in its darkest hour. He hasn't shown up yet, but the largest Danish resistance group during World War II was named after the guy, so I guess that's an indication of his impact.









After covering pretty much the entire castle and wandering along the adjacent sea wall, it became time to get back to the train station and back to downtown Copenhagen.  I mean, I've got places to go and things to see, so I might as well get a move on.


Oh, well, let's get a picture with the castle first.  Yeah, that's the stuff.



The first stop on the way back into town was at a place called Østerport. Although the station is located on the northern fringe of downtown, the name translates as "Eastern Port." Geographical inconsistencies aside, in addition to being near some charming lakes - which, owing to the lighting conditions didn't come out well in photograph form - it's also the closest rail station to the US Embassy in Denmark, thereby allowing me to complete my quadfecta of seeing the embassy in every country I visited. It's not that I needed to use them or anything, or even that they were architecturally interesting, I suppose it's just so I could say that I completed something.

However, I did have other reasons for getting off in Østerport. I guess I misspoke when I said that Legoland was the only place I knew about in Denmark, since Copenhagen's most famous landmark has got to be the statue of Hans Christian Andersen's Little Mermaid, sitting on a rock in an inlet near one of the city's ports. So I wandered around through what I later found out was a historic fort, down several staircases, and finally out onto the boardwalk by the water's edge to where the statue sits.


Or, I should say, where the statue usually sits. I just so happened to decide to visit the statue one month after the Copenhagen City Council agreed to lend the statue - with her rock and all - to the Danish Pavilion at Expo 2010 in Shanghai. So what I saw when I got there was not an iconic statue but a really big television screen sticking out of the water a few feet from shore. Sure, it was a live feed of the statue in her temporary lagoon in China, but it was all a bit surprising. I'm just glad that wasn't the point of my whole visit to Copenhagen.
 


I've got to say, the next few hours kind of sucked.  It rained a lot - including a decent amount of hail - but at least I had my jacket.  However, most annoyingly, my glasses - which had been slowly loosening through a weak spot in a weld of one of the nose piece supports - finally broke.  Granted, I did happen to have tucked a spare pair of glasses in my luggage back at the hotel, but that was still 5 miles away.  So I had to walk back to the subway and eventually find my way back to the hotel with a jagged piece of metal anchoring the right side of my glasses into my nose.  At least they didn't slide down anymore, which they'd been doing so rapidly for the last week that I had to adjust them every 2 or 3 minutes.  As you can see below, I was not a happy camper. 




They say that you've always got to have one major catastrophe in any big trip that you take.  I'm not particularly superstitious, but the relatively smooth nature of the trip so far had taken me a bit by surprised.  My checked bag made it through three connecting flights, I hadn't forgotten anything at home, nothing had fallen out of my backpack in over 1,900 miles of traveling throughout Scandinavia, I hadn't run out of money, I hadn't gotten food poisoning, I didn't make a fool of myself at the conference, and aside from that one interaction with those sketchy kids in Oslo I hadn't run into any pickpockets.  Up until that point, I'd been figuring that I was going to oversleep and miss my flight home or something.  So it was actually quite a relief when my glasses finally broke.

In fact, things really started looking up after that.  The big rainstorm was over, I was nearly done with the trip, and the skies cleared up and became even more blue and spectacular than it was before.


Equipped with my spare glasses that I'd fortunately had stowed away deep in my luggage all this time, I set back out into the city.  However, by this point it was just about getting to be 6pm, which if I'd learned anything from my time in Scandinavia is the time that all museums close around these parts.  Or, I should say, nearly all of the museums close.  Luckily for me, my trusty Let's Go Europe guidebook told me that there was still one attraction open in the city: the Round Tower.


The round tower? It's the one towards the left that looks like an observatory.  You know... because it is.


I wound past the parliament building and into a narrow, pedestrian area to get to the tower itself. The Rundetårn, as it's called in Danish, was started in 1637 and is about 40m tall.  The building houses offices, a university library, an observatory, and, perhaps most surprisingly, a church.


The cool thing about the ascent of the tower itself is that you have to climb up 7.5 revolutions of a spiral ramp.  Now, lest you think this is some Guggenheim-esque gentle spiral, I should point out that in the center the ramp tips upwards at a whopping 33% grade, so the trek upwards was actually quite tiring.  And to think that they have an annual race up to the top every spring... on unicycles.



However, no matter how tired I was from wandering around all day and from hiking up the ramp of doom and no matter how many times this trip I'd looked out across a Scandinavian city from some high vantage point, the view from the top of the Round Tower was still quite breathtaking.  Fortunately, there were benches.



Off in the distance, I got my first good view of the Øresund bridge in profile.  Man, is that thing spectacular or what?















By this point, it was about 7pm.  However, even at this most southerly point of my European expedition, the sun was still high in the sky for such a late time of night.  So I sat up there for probably 30 or 45 minutes, just soaking up some sun and savoring the densely packed and generally historic architecture before I had myself an idea.

Throughout the trip, I'd generally become more confident in Europe's transit systems.  Whereas initially I'd allow something like 2 hours extra when taking a train or a bus, by this point in the trip I trusted the schedule adherence of these transit operators enough to be getting to my train with perhaps only 5 or 10 minutes to spare.  However, when it came to my flight home on Thursday, I wasn't willing to take any chances.  I mean, the Copenhagen airport is way off on the Øresund shores on the outskirts of town, and I was still a bit concerned that I might not allow enough time to catch my flight or I might misuse the train system and find myself back at Elsinore.

So I figured that I might as well use my bonus hours of daylight to take a trip on down to the airport.  I mean, who doesn't like airports?  Certainly not me.

So I descended down the corkscrew ramp from the top of the tower and within a few blocks found myself at one of the main stations of Copenhagen's new metro system.  In contrast to their seasoned network of commuter trains, the Metro is only 8 years old.  They only finished building the thing all the way out to the airport in September of 2007.  Needless to say, the whole system is pretty slick.


Probably the most interesting thing, at least from a transportation engineering standpoint, is the fact that the whole of the 13 mile long system is automated.  From the ticket machines to the entry gates to the trains themselves, I only saw one staff member (in a SECURITY jacket) during all my uses of the Metro system.  It really is kind of weird to be sitting in the front of one of the trains, hurtling down the tracks, with nothing in front of you but a big glass window.  It certainly is a far cry from the reassuring human presence in the Washington Metro and most of the other systems I've ever used.



Fortunately for me, I'd picked up a couple of brochures to read on the 14 minute trip.  As I was flipping through one of them, I stumbled across a map and had to pause for a moment.  The last station we had just passed was named "Øresund," and the next one was called "Amager Strand".  From my brief time taking German in high school, I remembered that the word "strand" means "beach."  So I quickly gathered my things and managed to get off of the train just in the nick of time in the hopes that maybe, just maybe, I might find myself at a beach with a view.





The sun was getting noticeably lower in the sky as I exited the station and found myself in a quiet little neighborhood south of downtown.  However, I knew I must be on the right track because not only did the quaint little houses come to an abrupt end about two blocks away, there was just a hint of sea breeze wafting down the road towards me.




So I worked my way down the road and took a skinny bridge across a narrow inlet to find myself in the Amager Strandpark (the Amager Beach Park).  I later found out that the whole of the 2km long island containing the park was manmade, and only in 2005.  Turns out the city has been investing a lot of money into improving the southern edge of the city - both in terms of services, property values, and quality of life - in light of the success of the Øresund Bridge and the newly expanded international airport.

The effect of the finished product is quite stunning.  Not only are there numerous paths for jogging and bike riding as well as a sizable artificial lagoon for swimming (including a 1000m swimming course), the whole of the island has been sculpted and planted in such a way that the thing seems like a peaceful sanctuary.  Grasses and dunes abound in the northern section of the island, and as I crested one of the dunes and looked across the sound towards Sweden I could see that the sea was just littered with dozens and dozens of graceful wind turbines.

Needless to say, I was very glad I'd decided to make the trip out this way.












However, the best was still yet to come.  As I walked south along the island, I rounded a curve and was presented with one of the best sights I'd seen in the entire trip: a simply stunning bridge.  I think I'm always going to have a weak spot for cable-stayed bridges, and given the length and grace of the Øresund Bridge, this has got to be one of the most gorgeous ones I'd ever seen.










After probably a half dozen attempts at framing, I finally even got a picture of myself with the thing.  Mmm.  Just look at that.
















I had originally planned to take my shoes off and wander around barefoot on the beach, but apparently foot comfort wasn't one of the things the designers were concerned about as they piled up dredging material to create the island.  Especially in the more commericialized southern half of the island (they have a pier, restrooms, a cafe, and even a dive shop), the top few inches of sand are composed of very pointy shell fragments.  So after failing to walk barefoot on the beach in Norway (the temperature was 44 degrees), Sweden (no beaches, just sea walls), and Finland (high winds caused crashing waves that would have mashed Donny and I up against jagged rocks), I had to let go of that one goal.

However, with the sun shining down on my shoulders, seagulls honking overhead and seashells crunching satisfactorily under my feet, and the everpresent and stately bridge off to my left, I once again found myself thinking that this would be the best possible way to end my trip.  However, for the third time in four days, I had to remind myself that things were not yet over, and that there was still more to be seen tomorrow.

Eventually, the sun sank down to the tree line and I returned to the Metro - unlike in Washington, they run theirs all day and all night here - to continue on down to the airport.  I familiarized myself with the impressive and modern structure before returning to the central train station, making a few phone calls home since by now it was about 5:30 eastern time, and returning home to my oversized hostel.

In our next exciting installment, I promise I'll finally finish this thing up.  Seriously.